In This Guide
It's one of the first questions that comes up on a site visit: is this going to be a ground-level deck, or does the site demand something elevated? For some Melbourne blocks, the answer is obvious — the house sits two metres above the garden and there's no choice. For others, the block is relatively flat and either option is technically possible.
The decision matters more than most homeowners realise. Elevated decks and ground-level platforms are different builds — structurally, in terms of cost, and in what they demand from the ground beneath them. Getting this decision right before you start is far easier than changing it halfway through.
This guide explains what separates the two, what each costs, when you'll need a permit, and — most importantly — how to figure out which one your Melbourne block actually needs.
What Makes a Deck "Elevated"?
In Melbourne, there's no single threshold that makes a deck "elevated" versus "ground level" — but as a rule of thumb, a deck is considered elevated when the finished floor level sits more than 500–600mm above the ground below it. In practice, this often means the deck is high enough that you'd need more than a single step to get on and off, or that the space below the frame is accessible and visible.
For homes with rear gardens that slope away from the house, a deck that's level with the inside floor might only be two steps above grade at one end — but three or four metres above grade at the opposite end. That's an elevated deck by any measure, even if the entry point feels similar to a ground-level platform.
The distinction matters because it affects almost everything: the depth of your footings, the structural design of the frame, the materials required, the access for tradespeople, and whether you'll need a building permit.
Melbourne Tip
Many Melbourne blocks — particularly in the eastern and south-eastern suburbs — have enough rear slope that what looks like a modest deck from inside the house is actually elevated 1.2–2m at the garden end. Always measure at both ends of the deck area before making assumptions about complexity.
The Structural Difference — Why It Matters
This is the part most homeowners don't see — and it's where a significant chunk of the cost lives.
Ground-level decks
A ground-level composite deck sits on bearer and joist framing supported by concrete footings (either pad footings or screw piles, depending on soil conditions). The frame is typically not very high off the ground — often just enough to ensure airflow and drainage beneath the deck boards. The structural design is relatively straightforward: footings at regular intervals, bearers spanning between them, joists running perpendicular to the board lay direction.
The loads are smaller because the frame is close to the ground, the spans are shorter, and there's less leverage on the footings. For a well-built ground-level deck, this means the substructure is robust but doesn't need to be heavy.
Elevated decks
An elevated deck carries significantly different structural loads. The posts that support the frame are taller, which means greater bending forces are applied to each footing under lateral loads (people moving, wind). The footings need to go deeper — typically below the frost line on Melbourne clay, which means deeper excavation and more concrete.
For elevated decks above 1.8m in height, the AS1684 residential timber framing standard and AS3600 concrete standard both impose specific engineering requirements. Steel posts may be required. Bolt-through connections between posts and bearers become critical. The frame needs to be engineered to handle not just the vertical load (the weight of the deck and the people on it), but also the horizontal loads — wind uplift, racking forces, and the asymmetric loads created by stairs.
At My Home My Garden, we use the same Elevated Build Standard™ on both ground-level and elevated decks — laminated framing, joist protection tape, correct bearer spacing, Fast Clip concealed fixings — but the structural engineering layer is substantially more involved on elevated builds.
What cheaper builders skip on elevated decks
Undersized footings and single-ply posts are the most common structural corners cut on elevated decks. They're invisible once the deck is built, but they're also what leads to movement, creaking, and structural failure over time. Always ask your builder what footing size and depth they're specifying, and why.
Cost: Ground-Level vs Elevated
This is the question every homeowner wants answered first — and it's also the one that requires a site visit to answer accurately. But here's an honest framework.
For a straight-run composite deck installed by My Home My Garden:
Ground-Level Deck
- Typically from $520–$560/m²
- Standard pad footings or screw piles
- Shorter posts, simpler connections
- Lower structural steel cost
- Permits often not required (under 400mm)
- Access to subframe is easier
Elevated Deck
- Typically from $560–$660/m²
- Deeper footings, more concrete
- Taller posts, bolt-through connections
- Potential steel post requirements
- Building permit almost always required
- Engineering drawings may be needed
These ranges reflect the deck surface and structure only. Stairs, balustrades, picture-frame borders, drainage works and pergolas are all scoped and priced separately. On an elevated deck, stairs are a more significant addition — every flight requires its own structural connections back into the main frame, and the height of the flight increases the materials required.
The important caveat: a deck on difficult ground — rocky soil, unstable fill, poorly compacted ground from previous construction — can push costs beyond these ranges regardless of height. This is why we visit every site before quoting. Ground conditions matter as much as deck height in determining final cost.
Permits and Regulations in Melbourne
In Victoria, the requirement for a building permit on a deck is governed by the Building Regulations 2018 and the National Construction Code (NCC). The general rule:
- Decks under 800mm above ground level — generally exempt from a building permit in Victoria, provided they meet setback requirements from property boundaries
- Decks 800mm or more above ground level — typically require a building permit
- Decks in bushfire-prone areas — additional requirements apply regardless of height
- Decks close to property boundaries — setback rules apply under ResCode and may require council approval regardless of height
The permit process in Melbourne typically involves lodging plans with a registered building surveyor (RBS), who assesses compliance with the NCC. For elevated decks, engineering drawings are often required — your builder or the surveyor can advise what's needed for your specific situation.
Our process on permitted builds
At My Home My Garden, we manage the permit process with you. If your elevated deck requires a permit, we'll identify this at the quoting stage — not as a surprise during the build. We work with a registered building surveyor and can arrange engineering drawings when needed. The permit is factored into your project timeline from the start.
Design Considerations for Each Type
Ground-level deck design
The great strength of a ground-level deck is that it blurs the boundary between indoor and outdoor space. With a single step (or even flush access if the inside floor level allows), movement between the inside of the house and the deck is effortless. This works particularly well for entertaining: guests flow naturally from inside to outside without the psychological barrier of stairs.
Ground-level decks also tend to feel more integrated with the garden. Because they're close to grade, you can continue planting right up to the edge of the deck — or even incorporate planter boxes into the deck border — in a way that elevated decks don't easily allow.
The limitation: below a certain height, ground-level decks can have ventilation challenges. Without adequate airflow beneath the boards, moisture can accumulate and create conditions for mould or fastener corrosion. This is why the framing height above ground matters — even on a "ground-level" deck, the frame shouldn't be directly on or in the soil.
Elevated deck design
An elevated deck's defining feature is the view and the sense of separation from the garden below. On a Melbourne block that slopes away from the house, an elevated deck can completely transform how the outdoor space is experienced — instead of looking at a slope, you're looking across it.
Elevated decks also create usable space below — storage, a sheltered area for outdoor furniture or a play space for children. The space under an elevated deck is often one of the most underutilised opportunities in Melbourne residential builds, and one worth planning for from the start.
The practical considerations: stairs become a significant design element on an elevated deck, not just a functional one. The position of the stair flight affects traffic flow, how the deck connects to the garden, and how the overall space feels. Getting stair placement right on the plans before building starts pays dividends in usability.
Which One Does Your Site Need?
The honest answer: for most Melbourne blocks with any slope, the choice is made by the block, not by preference. Here's a practical guide:
- Your garden is relatively flat — either type is possible. The choice is about design and how you want the deck to relate to the garden
- Your block slopes away from the house — the back end of the deck will be elevated; the question is by how much. A gentle 1.5m fall over 5m is quite different from a 3m fall over the same distance
- Your inside floor level is 600mm+ above the garden — you'll be building an elevated deck whether you intended to or not, because matching inside floor level is almost always the right design choice
- You have an existing concrete slab or paved area — a ground-level platform deck over a slab can be an excellent option, as it avoids the need for footings altogether (subject to structural assessment)
- Your block is in a bushfire-prone zone — specific material requirements apply to both deck types; composite decking's non-combustible classification is advantageous here
Not sure which type your site needs?
Every block is different. We'll visit your site, assess the levels, and give you a clear recommendation — with no obligation to proceed.
How to Decide: A Practical Framework
If you're still weighing up both options, here are the questions to work through before you call a builder:
1. What is the finished floor level of your indoor space?
The most successful decks are level (or close to level) with the interior floor. Measure the height from your back door threshold to the ground below. If it's more than 400mm, you're likely building an elevated deck.
2. What do you want to do with the space below the deck?
If storage or a sheltered under-deck space has value for you, lean toward elevation. If you want a seamless connection to the garden, lean toward ground level.
3. What does the slope of your block require?
Walk to the far end of the proposed deck area and look back toward the house. If you're looking significantly uphill, the outer edge of your deck will be elevated regardless of what the inner edge does. Plan for it.
4. What is your budget for stairs and balustrades?
If budget is a genuine constraint, be realistic about what elevation adds — stairs, balustrades (required above certain heights) and deeper footings all add to the cost. A well-built ground-level deck at the right height often delivers better value than an elevated deck with stairs that have been value-engineered to reduce cost.
5. Have you talked to a builder on site?
This is the only step that will give you a definitive answer. Plans and photographs only reveal so much. The ground conditions, the exact levels at each corner, the relationship between the house slab and the garden grade — all of this only becomes clear when someone is standing on your block, looking at the actual site.
At My Home My Garden, we visit every site before quoting. That's not a sales process — it's the only responsible way to give you a number you can actually rely on.